Its been a while since we last "chatted". Its been a hectic fall at university; papers, exams, etc. THIS IS A WARNING TO ALL HIGH SCHOOL TEACHERS............... Don't pass your students if they can't write a simple sentence!!! Although I'm not an English professor (actually, American...... ok, bad joke ;-O ), I would like to be able to read an essay that believes in the notion of full sentences with subjects and verbs.... what a concept! This 21st century world of text messaging will ensure that Vanna White has a job for eternity. Tell you students to "kp b-i-ing vowels!" Or, as they say, OMG, those letters DO have a use.
OK, I went away..... but I'm back now. And on to Esna.
Although the Nile gently and effortlessly flows north to the Med without disruption from Aswan, shipping needs a little assistance around the small town of Esna. It is located about 35 miles south of Luxor. Esna's history is long, although not so glamorous. At first, its main function was to service that great Trans-Nile Highway that ran from Er-Rashid over 2000 km to the Sudan. It would become the capital of the 3rd Province (Nome) of Egypt during the Greek and Roman Eras, and a major Ptolemaic Temple would be built here to the Goddess Khnum.
The great French novelist, Flaubert, who wrote Madame Bovary, visited Esna was propositioned by an "almah" who "danced" for him " somewhat not so virtuously"! Wild times indeed.
The barrage, holding lake, and lock were first constructed in 1906, with constant expanding and remodeling to accomodate larger and larger vessels. The Egyptian Dam Authority has been building a second "twin lock" adjacent to the first, for the last ten years. Each year, I am told, it will be finished. As we say, "from your mouth to God's ears!".
It is essential to complete this lock, because travel has swollen incredibly over the past 2 decades- mostly due to the fact that there are nearly 100 cruise ships today on the Nile! Each has to pass through the lock- FROM BOTH DIRECTIONS. The 405 in LA at rush hour is a piece of cake compared to Esna.
At times, the queue can back you up for 5 hrs, as you patiently wait your turn. However, take heart..... there are ways to amuse yourself. If you are lucky, your ship's "Rais", or captain, can tie up along the dock for a bit and allow you to disembark to visit the town. Here, you may find a traditional coffee house and get buzzed with the thick "mud" or smoke some Sheeshah, molasses
and tobacco. Or, you may choose something a bit tamer, like getting up close and personal with a snake charmer in the Suq!
But for those who wish to stay onboard and think that they can just relax on the upper deck, read, sun or nap..... as a New Yorker once said- "fuggedaboutit". In the holding lake dozens of hawkers have discovered that they have a captive audience. So, they brazenly paddle out to your ship and their cries pierce the air as they try to peddle their goods. If you can forget the distracting side, and vow n
ot to buy anything, the "show" is quite funny. They will even toss goods up to the boat deck for you to examine, hoping that you either buy or throw it back down. Of course, don't forget, there's WATER all around; so goods get wet, money 
gets wet, money gets lost, goods get lost. All in all, its an INTERACTIVE BUYING/COMEDY SHOW to help while away the hours.
At last, after hours of waiting in line, the lock can be entered and passed through. Sometimes this occurs during the day; at other times, late at night. Either way, its an adventure that everyone enjoys seeing from the upper deck. Today's cruise ships may be small by ocean liner standards, but there is only about 1 metre's space between the wall of the lock and the typical Nile cruiser- tight quarters to say the least. In these photos, you can see what I mean.
OK, I went away..... but I'm back now. And on to Esna.
Although the Nile gently and effortlessly flows north to the Med without disruption from Aswan, shipping needs a little assistance around the small town of Esna. It is located about 35 miles south of Luxor. Esna's history is long, although not so glamorous. At first, its main function was to service that great Trans-Nile Highway that ran from Er-Rashid over 2000 km to the Sudan. It would become the capital of the 3rd Province (Nome) of Egypt during the Greek and Roman Eras, and a major Ptolemaic Temple would be built here to the Goddess Khnum.
The great French novelist, Flaubert, who wrote Madame Bovary, visited Esna was propositioned by an "almah" who "danced" for him " somewhat not so virtuously"! Wild times indeed.
The barrage, holding lake, and lock were first constructed in 1906, with constant expanding and remodeling to accomodate larger and larger vessels. The Egyptian Dam Authority has been building a second "twin lock" adjacent to the first, for the last ten years. Each year, I am told, it will be finished. As we say, "from your mouth to God's ears!".
It is essential to complete this lock, because travel has swollen incredibly over the past 2 decades- mostly due to the fact that there are nearly 100 cruise ships today on the Nile! Each has to pass through the lock- FROM BOTH DIRECTIONS. The 405 in LA at rush hour is a piece of cake compared to Esna.
At times, the queue can back you up for 5 hrs, as you patiently wait your turn. However, take heart..... there are ways to amuse yourself. If you are lucky, your ship's "Rais", or captain, can tie up along the dock for a bit and allow you to disembark to visit the town. Here, you may find a traditional coffee house and get buzzed with the thick "mud" or smoke some Sheeshah, molasses
and tobacco. Or, you may choose something a bit tamer, like getting up close and personal with a snake charmer in the Suq!But for those who wish to stay onboard and think that they can just relax on the upper deck, read, sun or nap..... as a New Yorker once said- "fuggedaboutit". In the holding lake dozens of hawkers have discovered that they have a captive audience. So, they brazenly paddle out to your ship and their cries pierce the air as they try to peddle their goods. If you can forget the distracting side, and vow n
ot to buy anything, the "show" is quite funny. They will even toss goods up to the boat deck for you to examine, hoping that you either buy or throw it back down. Of course, don't forget, there's WATER all around; so goods get wet, money 
gets wet, money gets lost, goods get lost. All in all, its an INTERACTIVE BUYING/COMEDY SHOW to help while away the hours.At last, after hours of waiting in line, the lock can be entered and passed through. Sometimes this occurs during the day; at other times, late at night. Either way, its an adventure that everyone enjoys seeing from the upper deck. Today's cruise ships may be small by ocean liner standards, but there is only about 1 metre's space between the wall of the lock and the typical Nile cruiser- tight quarters to say the least. In these photos, you can see what I mean.
Once you're through the lock at Esna, its smooth sailing til Luxor, just to the north. For generations, the only way to get across the Nile at Luxor was by using a local ferry. These old, leakey, noisy and smelly diesel ferries were a nightmare to take to the West Bank and Qurna. However, they were local, and colorful to say the least. 
About 8 years ago, a new bridge was constructed about 7 km south of town, to facilitate travel between the 2 banks of the Nile. The transportation authority deemed it essential to maintain the visual integrity of Luxor and the West Bank; so they opted for the new bridge that far south of town. Today, passing under it marks your entry and approach into this fabulous archaeological community- containing the world's largest open air museum, the Karnak Temple.
This is entering town in style! Next----- Luxor!
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