South to Aswan

After leaving Sakkara, we return to the Giza area. Today, Giza is a "Twin City" to Cairo, there being no seam between the two independent communities. There is very little to recommend Giza to the traveler. It grew up as a small, dusty community- poor and unremarkable. However, the lure of the pyramid plateau allowed for Giza to develop tourism in the end of the 18th and 19th Centuries. Remember, then, as a day's journey from the Nile, tourists needed to have a place to stay. Its a far cry from today's reality, when Cairo hotels can suffice.

So, a few luxury hotels would cater to its European, up-scale, clientele; such hotels like the famed Mena House. A stone's throw from the Great Pyramid, with a view to boot, it became "the" address for the rich and famous. In fact, the Mena House has seen its more than fair share of dignitaries such as Menachem Begin and Henry Kissinger.

And with the rich tourism industry, the rise of western influence on Egypt would increase exponentially. Both the best and worst of The New World would assault Egypt with a vengeance. (but with free delivery!)

Next stop- the Giza Train Station. The overnite train to Aswan usually departs somewhere around 8:30 pm- give or take.......... after all, this is Egypt and it has its own time zone! Leaving from here ofttimes saves a few hours. It is about a 45 minute train journey from Cairo. Factoring in all else, and the stop in Giza, its worth it to board from here. In addition, the Giza Station is less crowded.

To me, its actually an enjoyable overnite ride. Being only about two decades old, the sleeper cars provide what's necessary, although bare-bones, to get you inexpensively to Upper Egypt. Just don't flush the toilets while stopped at a station!

Its a slow, monotonous journey, but the rhythm of the train can easily lull you to sleep. Some choose to go to the club car. There, the thick blue layer of smoke indicates the national pasttime in Egypt- smoking. So, even if the program you're on is a "non-smoking" trip in enclosed spaces, its tough to argue with millions of native Egyptians! And in the club car, the haze begins waist-high and rises to the ceiling, where its trapped forever. But, for young people, the chance to meet people from all over the world, sharing in this train experience, can be priceless.

When the sun rises, and you awaken, you're in an entirely different world, nearly 1000 kms to the south; its a world of much cleaner air, fresh-smelling countryside, sun and warmth abounding. Not only is the land and climate different, but so are the people. Upper Egyptians are an entirely different folk, culturally and even ethnically as well. If Cairenes are a melange that mirrors a Mediterannean society, then Upper Egyptians reflect Nubian, or black African culture. Along the way, small railroad stations such as seen here dot the landscape. Remember, this is the primary means of travel for everyday Egyptians between Upper and Lower Egypt. The Nile Valley is rich and fertile, with greens that are as vivid as you can imagine. Around 10am, Aswan is coming into view. We depart the train station and then are transported to our home for the next week, the MS Tulip- and our Nile cruise adventure.