On to Old" Aswan

From the High Dam, we move back 3500 years in history, to the reign of the "Queen who would be King"- Hatshepsut. Her name's quite a mouthful, but here's an easy way to remember it. I have found that, in teaching, when something seemingly "Stupid" is presented to students, they have a tendancy to recall it, in part due to its "stupidity". So, here we go.

What do you get, when you go to Walmart in July and buy a wool suit?

Give up? How about a "Hot- Cheap- Suit"? Pretty dumb, eh? But you then have drilled into your head something "stupid" regarding Hatshepsut. Trust me, it works.

During her rule, and in general during the New Kingdom of Egypt (1550-1000 BCE), Aswan was the center of granite stone masonry. All of the granite deposits in Egypt come from this area, and there must have been several major quarries. Just outside Aswan, the southern neighborhood, one can find a granite quarry. Here we can readily see the techniques incorporated into cutting and working of stone thousands of years ago. Once discovered, this amazing quarry has been preserved by the Supreme Council of Antiquities. But here's the most incredible thing, in the quarry there was discovered an unfinished obelisk, dating to the reign of Hatshepsut.

So, what exactly is an obelisk? Well, when the Greeks came to this incredible land during the invasion by Alexander the Great in the late 4th Century BCE, they found in the various temples these tall, needle-shaped stone spires. They thought that they looked like petrified rays of the sun- so they called them obeliskos. Hence our term today.

Apparently, Hatshepsut suffered from penis envy perhaps! She ordered her sculptors to carve the largest obelisk in Egypt at that time. It was to be 42m long, 4 m wide and over 1200 tons in weight. This would be an unbelievable feat in the annals of stoenmasonry. So...... all was proceeding well, the masons followed directions, and were about 3/4 of the way through cutting the block. They started to work on shaping and finishing the pyramid-shaped point before removing the block from the bedrock. One night, there must have been an incredible CRAAAACK like thunder and lightning combined. No one knew where the sound came from. The next morning, as they came to the quarry, they discovered that their precious obelisk's granite had a flaw in it, and it cracked straight down its length for over 10 m.!

But Hatshepsut was not fazed in the least bit..... after all, she was Pharoah! So she ordered the masons to simply leave it! She then ordered them to cut another one.

Its our gain.......... since the unfinished obelisk is still lying in the quarry for us all to see, and imagine the techniques involved in ancient stone masonry!

PHILAE ISLAND

From the quarry, its a short hop to a small landing area adjacent to the "holding lake" between the Old and High Dams. There are a few islands in this area. One of them in antiquity was called Philae. A traditional burial place of the god Osiris, it would become the home for a temple complex dedicated to the goddess Isis during the Ptolemaic Greek Era during the 3rd Century BCE. Late, the Roman Emperor Trajan would build a small kiosk there in the end of the 1st Century-early 2nd Century CE.

However, the island would be in constant jeopardy due to the annual floodwaters of the Nile. This would become increasingly a problem after the building of the Old Aswan Dam at the start of the 20th Century. with this temple underwater much of the year. The problem would then be exacerbated by the new High Dam creating this "in-between" lake. The site would be threatened with total inundation and destruction.

The UNESCO Project that would save Abu Simbel would also save the monuments of Philae. But because it was an island, the unique situation called for an equally unique solution. The answer, move the monuments to another island! Adjacent to Philae was another island, substantially higher in elevation, called Agilkia Island. The engineers, architects and restorers would literlly blast the surface of this new island to match the topography of the original. They then would cut the monuments into millions of blocks and re-create the island a few hundred meters away! A massive cofferdam would surround the original island, protecting it from the waters, as this project was carried out. The end result, an incredibly beautiful reconstruction and restoration, as precise as one could imagine.

Upper Egypt from modern to ancient, part 1

After settling in on the Tulip, its time to head out and see what Upper Egypt has to offer. Our first visits take us to one of the modern wonders of the engineering world, the Aswan High Dam. This is not to be confused with the old Aswan Dam. That one was originally built by the British and inaugurated in 1902. It would serve for decades, being raised twice in engineering feats- in 1912 and again 1932 due to structural inadequacy. This lower gravity dam would generate a small amount of electricity for over a generation. The locks in the dam would be replaced by Tito's Yugoslav government in the 1970's and early 80's. Today, it serves vehicles as the only non-military thoroughfare across the Nile in Aswan.



Once across it, the landscape radically changes. You are truly in the heart of the Saharan Desert now. There's really nothing between you and the Libyan border to the west except sand! This broad expanse of land contains a combination of both sandy dunes and red Nubian sandstone ridges. It is here that the Egyptian government chose to build both the more modern Aswan High Dam and the Aswan Int'l Airport. There's plenty of room for expansion, with no need to worry about airplane noise bothering nearby residents! This view from our plane, looking north as it is coming into the Aswan airport shows the High Dam in the background, Lake Nasser immediately to the south, and the dunes of the Sahara adjacent.


The High Dam itself is called "that thing over there!" by the Egyptians. Today, mainly have nothing but disdain for it, as promises kept never lived up to their expectations and promises made were never fulfilled. In essence, today engineers see it as a mistake, a costly failure. Conventional wisdom now says that a series of smaller dams, staggered downstream in the Nile, would have been considerably smarter and more profitable. But again, this was 1950s technology as built in the 60s with the aid of the Soviet Union. This allowed them to get their foot into the door of the Middle East in an effort to counteract the US influence as it backed Israel.


This style of dam is what is refered to as an Embankment Dam, and was finished in 1970. It is over 3800 m. long and 111 m high. At its base it is 980 m and tapers to only 40 m; with an observation parking plaza on it overlooking both Lake Nasser to the south and the holding lake and hydroelectric turbines to the north. Lake Nasser, formed by backing up the Nile waters, is over 550 km long, 50 km wide and over 80 m deep! Here you can see the slope and, in the distance, the Soviet-Egyptian Friendship Monument. To me, it still looks like a Soviet missile silo!



The dam's 12 turbines produce about 2.2 gigawatts of electricity, and supplies Egypt with over 15% of the national need. The dam also regulates the rising and falling floodwaters of the Nile, preserving village life and the abundant antiquities in the Nile Valley.



But the disastrous effects were not properly calculated! Over 700 Nubian villages would be flooded by the rising lake's waters, with nearly 700,000 Nubians being relocated to new villages in the Nile Valley between Aswan and Luxor. 16 ancient Egyptian temples would be flooded as well. Were it not for the international efforts of UNESCO, 3 would be physically moved and restored and reconstructed- Abu Simbel, Kalabsha, and Philae Island. The others would perish. And although the annual floods were no longer occuring, destroying villages and lifestyles on an annual basis, there no longer was the deposit of life-giving silt on the fertile farmland of the Nile Valley. This was call for the construction of 5 artificial fertilizer plants in Egypt. Artifical fertilizer means more chemicals in the ground and groundwater. The Dam has caused the river to slow down, creating stagnant areas where the parasites cause Bilharzia, an eye-disease. The dam has seriously damaged river life, limiting one of the major food sources for Egypt. And finally, the slowing of the river has greatly modifed the Nile Delta far to the north, and influenced the shape and nature of the estuary at the mouth of the river- affecting the Mediterannean.



That thing over there..... a good idea with disastrous consequences of execution.

Home on the Nile

So, welcome "home" for the next 7 nights, the MS Tulip. This ship will take us to Upper Egypt, and bring the wonders of this ancient land to us, as we sail between Aswan and Luxor and return. This will allow us the luxury of onboard informal lectures and discussions, as well as give some well-earned "down time" after the hectic rush of arrival in Cairo and a full-day's touring.

I have to tell you, though, I wasn't always "sold" on the concept of cruises. For 30 trips, I worried about time, connections, "down time" on the cruise. I also had the misconception based on the "Carnival Cruise Lines" models that we see constantly on TV commercials. All of this changed when I was convinced to "try it, you'll like it" by the people at Wings Tours and Nile Cruises- the agency I have used in Egypt for a couple of decades.

Don't start thinking "Carnival Cruise Lines" when you think of the Tulip. It holds only about 100 passengers total. It's a small, intimate ship that was built in 2001, and refurbished just a couple of years ago. It's design is unique to Nile cruisers as well, in that all of the cabins are on the 2nd and 3rd deck, well away from engine room noise, and are very spacious. The large windows afford an incredible view of the Nile and the landscape of Upper Egypt as well.


The crew and staff are wonderful folks and are tuned in to your every need. They truly enjoy working (and having a good time!) with their guests while on the Tulip.

This intimate setting allows for Egypt to "come to you", rather than you traveling around on buses all the time to it. We are able to dock, offload and visit sites, and then return to our "home" to continue on our way. In between times can afford the luxury of study and watching the Nile pass by. But sometimes it can get REALLY CROWDED on the river, with nearly 90 boats afloat! Thanks to the British, on days that we are sailing between ports of call, there is a 4pm Tea Time... complete with tea and scones!
Coming up............. first visits in Aswan!

South to Aswan

After leaving Sakkara, we return to the Giza area. Today, Giza is a "Twin City" to Cairo, there being no seam between the two independent communities. There is very little to recommend Giza to the traveler. It grew up as a small, dusty community- poor and unremarkable. However, the lure of the pyramid plateau allowed for Giza to develop tourism in the end of the 18th and 19th Centuries. Remember, then, as a day's journey from the Nile, tourists needed to have a place to stay. Its a far cry from today's reality, when Cairo hotels can suffice.

So, a few luxury hotels would cater to its European, up-scale, clientele; such hotels like the famed Mena House. A stone's throw from the Great Pyramid, with a view to boot, it became "the" address for the rich and famous. In fact, the Mena House has seen its more than fair share of dignitaries such as Menachem Begin and Henry Kissinger.

And with the rich tourism industry, the rise of western influence on Egypt would increase exponentially. Both the best and worst of The New World would assault Egypt with a vengeance. (but with free delivery!)

Next stop- the Giza Train Station. The overnite train to Aswan usually departs somewhere around 8:30 pm- give or take.......... after all, this is Egypt and it has its own time zone! Leaving from here ofttimes saves a few hours. It is about a 45 minute train journey from Cairo. Factoring in all else, and the stop in Giza, its worth it to board from here. In addition, the Giza Station is less crowded.

To me, its actually an enjoyable overnite ride. Being only about two decades old, the sleeper cars provide what's necessary, although bare-bones, to get you inexpensively to Upper Egypt. Just don't flush the toilets while stopped at a station!

Its a slow, monotonous journey, but the rhythm of the train can easily lull you to sleep. Some choose to go to the club car. There, the thick blue layer of smoke indicates the national pasttime in Egypt- smoking. So, even if the program you're on is a "non-smoking" trip in enclosed spaces, its tough to argue with millions of native Egyptians! And in the club car, the haze begins waist-high and rises to the ceiling, where its trapped forever. But, for young people, the chance to meet people from all over the world, sharing in this train experience, can be priceless.

When the sun rises, and you awaken, you're in an entirely different world, nearly 1000 kms to the south; its a world of much cleaner air, fresh-smelling countryside, sun and warmth abounding. Not only is the land and climate different, but so are the people. Upper Egyptians are an entirely different folk, culturally and even ethnically as well. If Cairenes are a melange that mirrors a Mediterannean society, then Upper Egyptians reflect Nubian, or black African culture. Along the way, small railroad stations such as seen here dot the landscape. Remember, this is the primary means of travel for everyday Egyptians between Upper and Lower Egypt. The Nile Valley is rich and fertile, with greens that are as vivid as you can imagine. Around 10am, Aswan is coming into view. We depart the train station and then are transported to our home for the next week, the MS Tulip- and our Nile cruise adventure.

Sakkara Necropolis

The Sakkara Necropolis is an amalgam of tombs, pyramids and burial complexes that date from the Old Kigndom, specifically the IIIrd, Vth and VIth Dynasties. Here you find the oldest pyramid complex in Egypt- that of the Pharoah Djoser, dated to @ 2615 BCE. It is an incredibly large complex, with all of the features associated with the transition from this world to the Goodly West. The Sacred Precinct is surrounded by a massive wall, over 500 x 275 m long, enclosing not just the pyramid but halls and funerary buildings essential for the priests to ensure the dead king's immortality.

In order to "fool" potential grave robbers, there were 13 false doors, yet only 1 real gateway, into the mortuary complex. Built out of the sandstone and limestone indigenous to the area, the entry ceiling was carved to resemble papyrus bundle "logs". This, in turn, led to a peristyle hall that fronted the courtyard facing the pyramid itself.

Once you pass through the hall, the great court opens to you and you come face to face with the world's oldest pyramid. Its a "stepped" structure, like the ziggurats of Mesopotamia and Mexico. Layer-caked, rising over 200 ft over the western desert floor, it is awe-inspiring in its own way. This entire complex was designed by the first "Renaissance man" in history (longgggg before the Renaissance!), the universal man, Imhotep. In my mind, his feats make him the most influential man this early in history..... forget the pharoahs. He was high priest, chief architect, engineer, primary advisor, and scribe.... all rolled into one. Djoser thought so much of him that he had him interred in his sacred precinct as well.

As you approach this 6-tiered layer cake, you are struck by the fact that, in spite of its sophistication, its engineering technique was still based in what I call "mud-brick technology". In other words, the massive blocks of stone that hallmarked the Giza Complex are not in evidence. The brickmaking technology mindset still had them thinking on smaller scale blocks. Yet here all of the elements associated with the Cult of the Goodly West, the Land of the Dead, have been preserved or restored almost in their entirety. These elements include mortuary temples dedicated to Osiris and Anubis, gods of the underworld, false "houses" of the north and south associated with the realm of the dead, treasury buildings, and a cenotaph.

I have been fortunate to travel dozens of times to Egypt over the past 30 years, and have been able to witness the slow, arduous process of restoration and reconstruction throughout the archaeological landscape of Egypt. Nowhere have I personally seen it evolve more clearly than at Djoser's complex at Sakkara. In 1978, work was just beginning on reconstruction of the House of the North and South. Notice the stone mason- he is using the "original sandpaper" (without the paper!): sprinkling sand on a rough-cut block of stone, and then polishing the surface with sand poured over it and rubbed with a small block of stone. By 2001, both structures had been restored to the glory that was all theirs @ 4600 years ago.

What is really important is that the Sakkara Necropolis wasn't created just for royalty, but for the noblemen and women who pledged their lives to their pharoah. They then would be rewarded with smaller tombs of their own, promised reward in the Goodly West for their loyalty. One of the most outstanding examples of these types of tombs is that of Mereruka, "Vizier of the King". Of course, it didn't hurt that he was also married to the daughter of Pharoah Teti, whom he served!

Here is a wonderful departure from what we previously have seen. All of the pyramids and burials up to now have been monumental pieces of architecture, but devoid of artwork or heiroglyphs. Now, we find one of the most beauttifully decorated tombs of the Old Kingdom. The scenes of daily life, carved in raised relief, are exquisite- telling Mereruka's life story for all to read. As Vizier, one of his jobs was to oversee tax collection- this is reflected in the relief here.

But in addition to his work, his daily life is also protrayed, such as sailing in the marshes along the shore of the Nile. One of the most charming, intimate, and "authentic" pieces of his tomb is an inscription that may be the world's first reference to a person's nickname! His wife lovingly called him "Meri".

So, from the Sakkara Necroplis, we leap back into the 21st Century and return to Giza in order to catch the overnite sleep train to Aswan..... and an entirely new and wonderful world to the south! Stay tuned.

Sakkara and Memphis

After lunch in Giza, with the pyramids in the background and fresh-baked pita bread in our stomachs, we head south about 30 km to the area of Mit er-Rahina, the modern village that delineates the region of the first capital of Egypt, ancient Memphis. As we drive along an irrigation canal that shadows the Nile, the intense greenery of the fields assails us. Now, for the first time, we see why Egypt is the breadbasket of North Africa. The sheer size and abundance of crops astounds. Yet at the same time, you can see enormous problems that beset a nation of 70+ million: poverty, poor infrastructure, poor hygiene, government inaction in addressing key social issues. There is a tremendous disparity between urban and rural Egypt. However, the spirit of the people, their genuine-ness, gives an optimistic view of the future.



The village is evidence of the unbreakable chain of life that has stretched along the Nile for thousands of years. In fact, this village had almost made archaeological research impossible in this area. After all, what do you say? "Here's 100 Egyptian Pounds, can I dig a hole in your living room floor and promise to fill it back in later?" As a result, only limited, random research has been carried out, this often when, in the course of ploughing a field, a piece of statuary appears and authorities can carry out a salvage dig. These random finds have been gathered in an area just to the east of the modern village.



Found here, in the first part of the 19th Century, was an unfinished and badly eroded statue of the great King Ramses II. Lying in an open field, Giovanni Belzoni described it and painted it in all its splendor. Yet it would remain in this open field for nearly two centuries. Here is the way that it looked during WW II. (right). Finally, in the mid 1970s, the Supreme Council of Antiquities would build an open-air structure to protect this statue from the elements.





Other statuary gathered from the Memphis precinct also comes from the end of the Middle Kingdom, such as this statue of an Alabaster Sphinx. Alabaster is a gypsum-like stone that is found primarily in the Luxor District, about 700 km to the south. Left: Here is my father sitting on the sphinx in 1944 (now that's really frowned upon!). And, the second generation after, my daughter Jessi. (above).




Once again, you can see the progress made by the Supreme Council of Antiquities in preserving Egypt's ancient monuments.



From there, it is a short drive back across the canal to the vicinity of the Necropolis of Sakkara. This burial complex dates to the IIIrd, Vth and VIth Dynasties of the Old Kindgom. Here, during the IIIrd, one finds the earliest complete pyramid in Egypt- that of the Stepped Pyramid of the Pharoah Djoser. But before entering the Necropolis, there's a stop at one of most important craft arts of Egypt today; that of rug making. Our journey takes us to the El Sultan Carpet School. This governmentally licensed workshop combines the necessity of education with the necessity of learning a trade for life.


Students are taught the basics of a secular education for half a day 6 days a week. Then, for the balance of the day, they are trained in the art of weaving and rugmaking. This is not child labor or abuse of young people; but rather a means to ensure their working future.



So, buy a carpet bag, and get a rug free!



Next: The Sakkara Necropolis