Saturday, August 30, 2008

Departure and arrival










Cairo is the gateway to Egypt, whether you like it or not. Flying to anywhere in the Middle East can be an arduous task. The vast majority of carriers from the US usually fly into a hub in Europe- NWA/KLM to Amsterdam, United/Lufthansa to Frankfurt, etc. However, a few "national" carriers over the past few years have taken advantage of modern technology to fly non-stop from the eastern seaboard to their destinations- Cairo, Tel Aviv, Amman to name a few. Egyptair has become prefered due to its nonstop flights. The overnite flight, on a newer 777, is only 9 hrs or so. With the time change of 7 hrs, this places arrival into Cairo in mid-afternoon. Its a far cry from suffering through 5 or 6 hr layovers in Europe and an late evening Egypt arrival. After all, we're up and running first thing the next morning!







In addition, a daylight arrival in Egypt means the following- the captain usually makes a swing around the Giza Complex as an incredible introduction to this land and her people.






One thing that you learn immediately is something that I call "controlled chaos". One is never quite prepared for the cacaphony of sound, the overwhelming sight of the throngs of people, the faintest sense that you can "smell the antiquity" of this ancient land almost immediately after touchdown in Heliopolis. If it weren't for professional contacts in Egypt, it could be a daunting experience (with expletives deleted!)






As you leave the Heliopolis International Airport, the 40+ minute ride into the heart of Cairo begins to give you the sense of a land where the 20th/21st centuries seem to be thrust upon it, almost as a footnote to Egypt's endless history. Cairo is a city that is "becoming". Whether it is becoming built up or becoming decayed.... its layout and architecture seems to have found a tentative medium, settling in at that uneasy middle ground of "middle age". One can never know exactly which direction its heading. Orginally built as a city that could accomodate a couple of million, today Cairo has a population of 18 million during the day- but an overnight population of 16 million. Over 2 million commute to work daily. It is a city where one gets a medal for successfully crossing the street without getting bumped by traffic.





Traffic is non-stop. I have seen a lull in it.... around 2 am. This is a land where the brakes are optional and the horn is standard equipment. But once past the shock, it is a metropolis where you can feel tremendously safe if you venture out to explore.. but watch out for the cars!










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